The hair is seen before it is touched: frizz and split ends announce themselves from across the chair. Then it is handled — thickness, how rough the fibre has become, and how much of the length is past saving and needs to come off. The ends come first because that is where damage almost always sits, and the scalp is looked at before the lengths, since a red, flaky or congested scalp will keep producing weak hair no matter what is applied further down.
One wet strand is stretched before any treatment is chosen, on every head, without exception. Hair that gives and springs back can take a chemical service; hair that stretches and stays stretched cannot. Where the answer is going to disappoint, the strand is stretched in front of you rather than described — it is a quicker conversation and a more honest one.
Where the hair is coated, it is washed before it is judged. Product and mineral build-up makes hair feel waxy, heavy and flat and quietly stops treatments working, so cleansing it off first is what makes the reading honest. Your chemical history is taken as a history rather than as a list of recent appointments: home box colour counts, henna counts, and a treatment done years ago on length you still have counts.
Two things are then settled for your head rather than for the treatment: which strength of product is opened, and — where heat is part of the service — what temperature it is run at. A formula and a setting carried across every head is how the fine hair at a crown ends up receiving what coarse hair at a nape needed. Neither the strand test nor the temperature test is skipped because the day is busy or because you are in a hurry.
- A wet strand stretched before any treatment is named — never skipped
- Porosity and elasticity, checked wet and dry
- The ends first, and the scalp before the lengths
- Every chemical service in the last year — colour, bleach, henna, smoothing, rebonding
- Any bleach or highlights, however old, and whatever has been coloured over them since
- Build-up washed off before the hair is judged
- Scalp condition, sensitivity and any reaction history
- Your water at home, how often you wash, and what you wash with
- How you dry and style your hair on an ordinary day
- Any event the result has to be ready for