What is read before anything is filed
The reading starts with the natural nail plate: whether it is thin or strong, whether there are ridges or white spots across it, and whether the cuticle area is clean or swollen. Everything that follows — system, length, shape, and whether a set happens at all — comes out of that.
A healthy nail is a pale pink nail bed, a smooth surface with no ridges, a strong free edge and a cuticle with no swelling in it. A weak nail is equally recognisable: it bends, it peels away in layers from the edges, it gives under light pressure, and it carries white spots or deep ridges. A weak nail is not a refusal — it changes the length, the shape and the system, and that change is explained rather than made quietly.
Some findings end the appointment instead of shaping it. A nail lifting away from its bed, a colour turning yellow or green, or pus around the nail are signs of infection and nothing goes on top of any of them. The same applies to a fungal infection, a previous set that is already lifting, a cut nail, a wound, psoriasis on the nail, and a nail already under someone else's treatment. Where a nail is coming fully off the bed, changing colour, hurting, or getting infected again and again, that belongs with a doctor rather than with a nail technician — and you will be told so rather than worked around.
The nail is then graded for difficulty and you are told which kind you have. A normal-to-strong plate with a little natural length and a straight nail bed is the easiest to work on. A very thin, bitten nail with a short nail bed and an overgrown cuticle is the hardest, because both grip and shape have to be created rather than found. Retention is read in the same conversation: a very oily nail plate, hands in water for most of the day, or a cuticle that has not been prepped properly all predict early lifting, while a cleanly prepped dry plate, a healthy cuticle and hands that are looked after get three to four weeks comfortably.
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The plate, first and last
Thin or strong, ridges, white spots — and whether the cuticle area is clean or swollen.
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A weak nail changes the plan
Bending, peeling in layers, giving under light pressure — shorter, and a different system.
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Infection stops it outright
Lifting from the bed, yellow or green colour, pus around the nail — no set goes over it.
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Three to four weeks, when the prep is right
An oily plate, constant water work or a poorly prepped cuticle shorten it every time.