| Where it works on the hair | Past the cuticle and inside the cortex, set with heat, so washing does not strip it the way it strips a coating. | On and just inside the cuticle. The internal bonds are left alone — nothing is broken and nothing is reformed. |
| The result you see | A genuinely straighter fall with weight and movement kept, and root volume reduced rather than erased. | Frizz that stops lifting and a wave that is softer and better defined — straightening becomes easy rather than being performed. |
| The complaint it answers | Dense, coarse or very wavy hair whose mornings are dominated by it, and where a keratin treatment has already proved too light. | Frizz that lifts the moment the weather changes, on hair in reasonable condition that behaves the rest of the time. |
| How long it holds | Months rather than weeks on hair that suits it, stated as a range — where you land depends on coarseness, wash routine and water. | Weeks to a few months, and on thick, coarse hair as long as anything kept here. Hair type decides this, not the treatment's name. |
| The entry requirement | A processed strand test is standard rather than optional, read before the booking is confirmed. A failed test ends it. | A strand test where colour or previous chemical work makes the outcome uncertain, and always where henna is in the history. |
| On bleached or lightened hair | The most common refusal here. Bleach leaves the cortex porous, which is precisely the layer this treatment works in. | Declined where the ends are porous and chalky, but frequently the treatment that can still be offered to hair the deeper system was refused for. |
| On fine hair | Often not a good idea. Reducing root volume is part of what it does, so fine hair can end up looking flatter and thinner rather than smoother. | Possible with a lighter formulation, less of it, and application kept well away from the scalp — where fine hair is also limp, conditioning work may be the honest answer. |
| What happens to curl | Substantially reduced. If keeping your pattern matters, this is the wrong one to book. | Kept. Loosened and organised, with far less frizz between the curls, and it returns fully as the treatment fades. |
| Colour around it | Sequenced with gaps decided together. Bleach and this treatment do not belong on the same head in the same season. | Usually colour first with a gap, since the sealing step can lift a fresh tone and colour applied afterwards behaves unpredictably on a sealed cuticle. |
| Time in the chair | A long appointment, deliberately so — application alone runs an hour to ninety minutes, and processing is timed rather than extended. | Two to four hours, decided by length, density and how much sealing the hair needs. |
| Repeating it | Only once it has genuinely eased off and the hair has been reassessed. Stacking strong smoothing is cumulative — each sitting is fine, and the fourth is where hair gives up. | When the previous treatment has genuinely worn off. Re-sealing hair that is still sealed adds weight without benefit, and on finer hair reads as limp. |