Our professional assessment
This is the service where the scalp decides. The hair is parted into sections and the skin underneath is read before the lengths are considered at all — a scalp that is red, flaking or congested will keep producing weak hair however much is spent on the rest of it.
The commonest finding is an oily scalp above dry ends, and the two are handled as separate problems on one head rather than as a single condition. Wash frequency is asked about because it cuts both ways: washing too seldom leaves dirt sitting on the scalp and weakens the root, washing too often thins the hair. Oil is asked about for what it does for the scalp rather than for the lengths.
What the reading then decides is this treatment against the repair treatments, and the line between them is clear. A spa is the monthly top-up for hair that is healthy and simply feels a little dry. Hair carrying real damage is a different case: it is sent to the repair route instead, which holds for considerably longer and is meant for exactly that.
Build-up is the finding that most often cancels the appointment somebody booked. Serum and dry shampoo left on the hair over months read convincingly as damage — dull, heavy, lifeless — and guests arrive asking for a repair treatment on the strength of it. Where a single clarifying wash brings the shine straight back, no treatment is sold on top of it: the answer is the shampoo, and it is given as the whole answer rather than as the first half of a course.
Hair fall is the complaint most often misread. Fifty to a hundred hairs a day is ordinary, and a guest who washes twice a week is seeing three days of it at once in the drain. Where the fall follows a thyroid problem, low iron, a recent fever or a delivery, it belongs with a doctor rather than with a salon, and that is said plainly instead of being met with a course of appointments.